Wieninger Wiener Grüner Veltliner '22

Vienna is one of the world’s great wine anomalies: a major capital city with real vineyards inside its borders. The city is divided into 23 districts, and most of the vineyard area sits in the 19th and 21st districts, on opposite sides of the Danube. These districts are home to the twin growing zones of Nussberg and Bisamberg.

My father and I traveled to Austria in 2012 and had the privilege of visiting Weingut Wieninger, one of Vienna’s benchmark wineries. Fritz Wieninger grew up in his family’s heurige (wine tavern), pouring wines made by his mother, one of the first female graduates of the enology program at Klosterneuburg, before returning to Vienna and helping redefine what “Viennese wine” could be. Today, the winery is based in the 21st district, with key holdings in both Bisamberg and Nussberg, and farming that reflects a deep commitment to biodynamic principles.

The 2022 Wiener Grüner Veltliner is a perfect snapshot of that city-meets-vineyard identity, built entirely from fruit grown within Vienna, sourced primarily from Bisamberg with a significant portion from Nussberg. The grapes are hand-harvested, given a short skin contact, then gently pressed and fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel, followed by time on fine lees before blending and bottling.

With pear and citrus on the nose, a bitter citrus pith note on the palate, and a finish marked by white pepper and mineral, it’s tailor-made for the heurige table. Pair it with Wiener schnitzel, fried fish, or a classic spread of cold cuts, pickles, and salads.